Lonetree Sewalong Pt 7: Sewing the Sleeves and Cuffs
Welcome back! Today is Part 7 of the Lonetree Jacket and Vest Sewalong, where we’ll be sewing the sleeves and cuffs onto our Lonetree Jacket. If you’re sewing a Lonetree Vest you can tune back in tomorrow (or Thursday if you’re omitting the optional hood).
Just tuning in? Here’s the full Lonetree Sewalong schedule so that you can catch up.
- Feb 20 | Pt 1: Gathering Your Supplies
- Feb 21 | Pt 2: Cutting out the Pattern
- Feb 22 | Pt 3: Applying Interfacing and Finishing Raw Edges
- Feb 23 | Pt 4: Marking the Pattern Pieces
- Feb 24 | Pt 5: Sewing the Pockets
- Feb 25 | Pt 6: Sewing Side Seams, Drawstring Casing, and Shoulder Seams
- Feb 27 | Pt 7: Sewing the Sleeves and Cuffs (View A)
- Feb 28 | Pt 8: Sewing the Optional Hood
- Mar 1 | Pt 9: Sewing the Armscye Facings (View B)
- Mar 2 | Pt 10: Sewing the Facings and Collar
- Mar 3 | Pt 11: Sewing the Zipper
- Mar 4 | Pt 12: Final Finishes and Hem
Sew the Back Seam
Align the upper and lower sleeves right sides together, matching notches. Sew from the sleeve cap down to the bottom notch only and backstitch.
If Edges are Serged:
Snip into the seam allowance at the bottom notch, but not through the seam. Press the seam open. Tuck the seam allowance below the notch underneath itself and press well.
If Edges Are Not Serged:
DO NOT snip into the seam allowance at the bottom notch. Instead, press the seam open and tuck the seam allowance underneath itself and press well along the entire length of the seam. Topstitch the entire seam with a 1/8" seam allowance on each side of the seam line.
Topstitch the Sleeve Vent
From the right side of the sleeve, topstitch the sleeve vent with a 1/8” seam allowance pivoting just above the end of the seam and sewing back down the opposite side of the vent.
Set the Sleeve
Sew two basting stitches along the top of the sleeve cap between the seam and the notches: one at 3/8” and another at 5/8”.
Be sure to leave long thread tails at each end of the basting stitch. You can slightly gather the sleeve cap now by pulling the bobbin threads of each basting stitch. Or you can wait until the sleeve is pinned into the armhole.
Align the underarm edges of the sleeve right sides together, matching notches. Sew with a 1/2" seam allowance.
Finish these seam allowances together, press them towards the back of the sleeve. If you're not using a serger, you can flat-fell these seams like we did in Part 6.
Insert the sleeve into the armhole with right sides together. First, align the underarm seams and the center sleeve cap notch with the shoulder seam. Then, align the front notches and back notche with the sleeve seam. Adjust the sleeve cap gathers until the sleeve cap fits well inside the armhole. (You’ll likely need to gather more of the back sleeve cap than the front.)
Sew, ensuring that your stitch travels in between your two basting stitches.
Turn the sleeve right side out and inspect your sleeve for any puckers around the sleeve cap. If all looks good, remove the visible basting stitches with a seam ripper.
Finish these seam allowances together and press up towards the bodices. If you're not using a serger, you can flat-fell these seams like we did in Part 6. Here's a great tutorial on how to flat-fell armhole seams.
Sew the Cuffs
Press one long edge of the cuff (the edge farthest from the button/snap markings) towards the wrong side by ½”. Then press the cuff again at the center notches, right sides together. Sew the side of each cuff, tacking down these folds.
Take a close look at the cuff diagram in Step 25 of the sewing pattern to see how each cuff should be aligned on each sleeve. It’s most important that the seam allowance extend beyond the sleeve vent on the side opposite the back sleeve seam by 1/2".
Note: Don’t worry too much here about which side of the vent the snap placement markings should be. Those are really just guides for where your snaps or buttons could be placed, but based on your wrist circumference, we’ll be adjusting those markings after our cuff is sewn on.
Sew the cuff to the sleeve with a ½” seam allowance, taking care not to sew over the ½” cuff fold underneath.
Clip the top corners of your cuff if you’d like to reduce bulk and then turn the cuff right side out.Press the cuff in half so that the folded bottom edge extends just past the stitching line. Pin the folded cuff well, ensuring that you’ll catch the inner folded edge when you topstitch from the right side of the cuff.
Topstitch with a 1/4” or 1/8” seam allowance around the entire perimeter of the cuff. I like to start and stop at the center top of the cuff.
The final step is to install our snaps or sew buttonholes and buttons. I recommend trying on your Lonetree Jacket and adjusting the cuffs until they feel comfortable when clasped shut. The longer “tab” of the cuff traditionally goes to the inside of the cuff, while the flush end of the cuff lays on the outside.
Install snaps or buttonholes/buttons where preferred. If using snaps that come in the Indiesew Lonetree Kits, refer to Part 5 of the sewalong for detailed instructions on how to install those.
Nice work all! For those of you adding a hood to your Lonetree, let’s meet back here tomorrow. Are you sewing your Lonetree along with us? Use #lonetreesewalong on social media to join in the fun!
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