Lonetree Sewalong Pt 1: Gather Your Supplies
Welcome to Part 1 of the Lonetree Jacket Sewalong! This sewalong is intended to be a supplement to the Lonetree Jacket and Vest sewing pattern. It will include step-by-step photos of the entire process of sewing both views of this design. We’ll also offer helpful tips for sewing with jacket-weight fabrics, installing snaps, and sewing in a separating zipper.
Here is sewalong schedule for the next two weeks:
- Feb 20 | Pt 1: Gathering Your Supplies
- Feb 21 | Pt 2: Cutting out the Pattern
- Feb 22 | Pt 3: Applying Interfacing and Finishing Raw Edges
- Feb 23 | Pt 4: Marking the Pattern Pieces
- Feb 24 | Pt 5: Sewing the Pockets
- Feb 25 | Pt 6: Sewing Side Seams, Drawstring Casing, and Shoulder Seams
- Feb 27 | Pt 7: Sewing the Sleeves and Cuffs (View A)
- Feb 28 | Pt 8: Sewing the Optional Hood
- Mar 1 | Pt 9: Sewing the Armscye Facings (View B)
- Mar 2 | Pt 10: Sewing the Facings and Collar
- Mar 3 | Pt 11: Sewing the Zipper
- Mar 4 | Pt 12: Final Finishes and Hem
Today is all about supplies! The Lonetree Jacket and Vest is an intermediate pattern that does require a few more supplies than your average sewing pattern. Luckily we’ve taken the frustration out of sourcing these supplies by offering Lonetree Kits. We’ll be stocking other colors of Lonetree Kits in the future and also offering a new substrate that gives this design an entirely different look!
For this sewalong, I’ll be sewing a mauve pink Lonetree Jacket (sans hood) and an army green hooded Lonetree Vest.
Here are the supplies you’ll need for both:
1. Lonetree Jacket sewing pattern
Grab yours here, only available at Indiesew!
2. Sufficient yardage of jacket-weight fabric
The fabric requirements for each size are located on page 3 of the pattern. Also, check out our Fit & Fabric Selection post for more information on stretch vs. non-stretch fabrics. Above all, choose a fabric that you’ll feel comfortable sewing with. Non-stretch twill is a great choice for beginner sewists.
You can use contrast fabric for the hood lining and facings. Quilting cottons and plaid flannel are excellent choices. The table on page 3 outlines how much contrast fabric is needed if you decide to go that route.
3. One separating zipper
Zipper length requirements for each size are located on page 4 of the pattern. I buy my separating zippers from Zipperstop because they offer a multitude of colors and lengths (I buy #5 aluminum or brass zippers). Shipping is fairly quick too.
4. 2 yards of mid-weight interfacing
Using interfacing on your jacket or vest is optional. If you’re using a stiff twill with no stretch you can likely get away without using interfacing. If you’re using a drapey rayon blend, be sure to apply interfacing to the facings, cuffs, and collar. I like using a weft fusible interfacing (like this one) for jackets and coats.
5. 2 yards 1/2" twill tape for the drawstring
You can find coordinating 1/2"-wide twill tape at Heasundries. It ships from Hong Kong, so does take a few weeks to arrive to the US. You can even order a color card if you anticipate that you’ll be ordering more twill tape in the future.
6. Snaps and snap setting kit
7. 2 cord stops
Cord stops (sometimes call cord locks) are optional, but they provide a nice alternative to tying a knot in your twill tape near the drawstring casing. I recommend using 6mm locks, which can be purchased at Pacific Trimming. Or swipe a few off a tired jacket if you’re feeling resourceful.
8. One universal sewing needle and Safety Pin
I use a regular universal needle for my Lonetree Jackets, but if you’re using really heavy-weight or dense fabric, consider using a topstitching needle. You’ll know if your needle isn’t cutting it if you hear a popping noise with each stitch.
A safety pin is essential to be able to feed your twill tape through the drawstring casing. If you have another method for feeding drawstrings, feel free to use it!
9. One large spool of coordinating thread
This is a thread-intensive project so I recommend stocking up. You’ll also need at least two bobbins filled with thread. I fill them both before I start sewing.
10. Four spools of coordinating serger thread
The seam allowances of the Lonetree Jacket and Vest are finished with a serger. You may choose to finish them with bias tape for super luxe look, but it does take a bit more time. If you find a thread that matches your fabric, those serger stitches will barely be visible to anyone but you.
Below is a photo of the supplies I’ve gathered for my Lonetree Jacket. I’ve decided to forgo interfacing because this Mauve Iris Broadcloth has a bit of body. You’ll notice that my zipper doesn’t match my fabric. A word of warning before you decide to sew a wacky-colored Lonetree: consider if you’ll be able to source matching zippers and twill tape. If you’re okay with contrast, white, grey, and black zippers are a nice alternative.
For my hooded Lonetree Vest (see below) I’m using a very drapey army green tencel twill (coming to the Indiesew Fabric shop soon!), so I will be applying interfacing to the facings and collar.
Before we move onto the next section, make sure to prewash your fabric for maximum shrinkage. I find that most cotton twills can be prewashed on a warm wash cycle and a medium tumble dry cycle. But if you’re working with a specialty fabric like waxed canvas, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for washing. If you don’t know them, it’s always better to err on the side of caution and wash on a gentle cold cycle and line dry.
Now that you’ve got everything you need, join us tomorrow when we start cutting out the pattern!
Are you sewing along with us? Post photos of your progress using #lonetreesewalong on Instagram to join in the fun!
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