Jamie Jean Sewalong Pt 5: Adjust to Fit
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Hello folks, we’re back today with Part 5 of the Jamie Jeans
sewalong! Yesterday we basted up our jeans and we evaluated the fit. And today, we’re ready to make these puppies fit!
If you basted up your Jamie Jeans and they already fit well, lucky you! Feel free to skip this post and join back up with us on Monday for part 6 of the sewalong.
If any part of your Jamie Jeans are just too big, this post will outline how to get a closer fit without tracing and cutting new pattern pieces. If you’re having some weird fitting around the crotch, or any area of the pattern is too small, I recommend you take a look at Heather’s fitting guide for jeans
. She’s an expert on the topic of fit adjustments and her suggestions are great. So if your fit issues extend beyond, “My Jamie Jeans are just too baggy,” read her post.
Pinch and Pin Method
When I first started to alter my own clothing I learned about the Pinch and Pin method from this post
. I tried the method out on a pair of bootcut jeans and the process worked really well for me. The pinch and pin method is definitely unorthodox (and by no means the "right way" to fit jeans) but it works!
So pull those Jamie Jeans back on, this time inside out. Starting at your waist, pinch equal amounts of fabric on each side of the garment so that the garment fits comfortably. Place a pin where the new seam should be. Continue to pinch and pin on each side of the waist, hips and each leg starting at the crotch all the way down to the ankles. At the ankles, be sure to mark where you want the hem of your jeans to lie. Your jeans should look like this when you’re finished:
If there are areas of the jeans that fit just fine, don’t pin those areas. When I used this method on my Jamie Jeans, I was pinching and pinning anywhere from 0.5” of fabric to 1.5” of fabric. If you’re grabbing more than 2” of fabric, consider cutting out the pattern in a size smaller. Your jeans pockets will be nonfunctional if they become too small.
Now, carefully take your pinched and pinned jeans off. I recommend getting someone to help pull them off from your ankles, to avoid a million pin pricks. Or, remove the pins from two layers of fabric, and pin it through just one layer in the same location before taking the jeans off.
Remove Extra Length
Mark where the new hem should lie. Cut off the extra length of your jeans legs, but make sure to add 3/4” for the double hem
Mark New Seams
Mark the new outer seams with fabric chalk, being careful to gradually taper or increase the seam allowance as necessary. I compare the seam allowance on both legs with a seam gauge to make sure the new seam allowances are the same width on each. Remove the pins as you mark the new seam.
Now, rip out your crotch basting stitch and mark the new seam on the inner seams. Place pins perpendicular to the seam, making sure the fabric lays flat on the new seam.
Baste New Seams
Now baste along the inner and outer seam lines you just marked, making sure to keep the seam allowances nice and flat as you sew.
Pin the crotch seam as we did before, with the right seam allowance extending beyond the left by 1/4”. Baste the crotch seam with a 1/2” seam allowance.
Try On Your Adjusted Jeans
Now that you’ve basted new seams into the Jamie Jeans, we need to see how much the fit has improved. Turn those jeans right side out and try them on, pinning the waistband where the buttonhole and button meet. Here’s the result of my fitting:
Let's take a look at the full transformation:
I’m pretty happy! The fit is more snug than my favorite RTW jeans, but since this denim has more stretch, I’m okay with that. Sit down in your new jeans, bend over, do a jumping jack. Take note of the new fit and if there are any changes you’d like to make. If you’re not completely happy, rip out the crotch seams and adjust your new basted seams until you're satisfied.
Once the fit is spot on, take a moment to congratulate yourself. You’re halfway through sewing up your own jeans! We’ll be back on Monday with a post on how to start sewing up these jeans with real topstitched seams. No more basting! Don’t forget to tag your Instagram photos with #jamiejeanssewalong so we can see your progress.
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