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How to Mashup the Birkin Flares and Ginger Jeans

By Allie

Allie is the co-founder of Indiesew and creator of all things pretty on the site. Follow Allie and receive other Indiesew updates by subscribing to the blog.

Indiesew.com | How to Mashup the Birkin Flares and Ginger Jeans

Once, many years ago, I owned a single pair of painted-on true black skinny jeans that I wore constantly. I think they came from a fashion subscription box, long before I was sewing most of my own clothes, and were a brand I had never heard of.  I’ve been dreaming about recreating them ever since they completely wore out, except this time with a super high rise.

So, when Blackbird Fabrics had a denim release this spring, I snatched up a few yards of black Cone Mills stretch denim. It’s not available right now and I don’t remember the weight of the fabric, but it worked well to create the jeans of my dreams.

These ultra-high waisted jeans are a mashup of the Birkin Flares and Ginger Jeans sewing patterns and they are my ideal fit preference for jeans right now. I’ve been wearing them on repeat since they came off my machine with this cropped Ogden Cami sewn in silk crepe.

Birkin Flares + Ginger Jeans + Ogden Cami

Ginger Jeans Back Pockets and Fly | Indiesew Jeans Tutorial

Ginger Jeans Back View | Indiesew Blog

How to Sew a Pocket Stay | Indiesew.com

So why mashup these two patterns? Well, I much prefer the fit of the Birkin Flares through the butt, hips (3” of negative ease!), and crotch, but I wanted the skinny leg, fly method, pocket stays, and back pockets of the Ginger Jeans. 

Another change I made to this design was to add 1.5” to the rise, so that the waistband lays about 1” above my belly button.

Birkin Flares + Ginger Jeans | Indiesew Sewing Projects

My waist and hip measurements are 26” and 37.5”, so I cut out the size 27 of the Birkin Flares and the size 8 of the Ginger Jeans. Here’s a quick illustration of how I modified my pattern pieces before I cut from my fabric:

Please note: The illustrations below are an approximation of how the pattern pieces look, not an exact replica of the design.

Phase 1: increase rise, create fly extensions, modify leg shape

 

Modified Birkin Flares Pattern Pieces | Indiesew

  1. First, I cut a horizontal line about 4” above the crotch point on the front and back legs, making sure it was perpendicular to the grainline. At that line I added 1.5” to the length of the rise.
  2. Then I tackled the fly modifications. Here I drew a curved fly extension on the front leg piece using the Ginger Jeans front leg pattern piece as reference. Since I’m using the Ginger Jeans fly method, I want both the right and left front legs to have this fly extension.
  3. Next I measured the inseam of the Ginger Jeans front and back leg (hint: the back leg is slightly shorter) and marked that same inseam on my Birkin Flares legs.
  4. Finally, I measured the width of the ankle opening of the Ginger Jeans. Starting from the center of the leg of the Birkin Flares, I measured so that the hem would be narrowed to the same width as the Gingers. Notice that a considerable amount of length had to be removed from the Birkin Flares legs.
  5. I blended the new dotted red lines with the existing pattern, using a French curve where needed to achieve the subtle shaping of the leg inseam and outseam.

 

Phase 2: Draft new pocket stays, fly shield, and fly extension interfacing

How to Draft a Pocket Stay | Indiesew Blog

How to Draft a Pocket Stay Part II | Indiesew

New Pattern Pieces | Ginger Jeans + Birkin Flares Mashup

  1. To create the top pocket stay, I traced the top pocket stay using the modified shape of the fly and the curved pocket opening.
  2. Then, I layed the pocket facing at the corner of the front leg to trace the bottom pocket stay. (I used the Ginger Jeans pocket stays for reference to see how the bottom of the stay should curve, and where it should align in the fly.)
  3. I traced the fly interfacing using the new fly extension.
  4. Finally I added 1.5" to the fly shield.

 

After all of my pattern pieces were modified, I sewed the jeans using the Ginger Jeans sewing instructions from start to finish. But here are some important notes to consider:

  • The pattern pieces that remained unchanged from the Birkin Flares sewing pattern were the waistband, yokes, pocket facing, coin pocket (I always omit this), and belt loops.
  • I used a 1/2” seam allowance throughout the entire pattern without issue, even though the Birkin Flares call for a 5/8” seam allowance and the Ginger Jeans call for a 1/2” seam allowance.
  • I did baste fit the jeans and realized that I needed to take the jeans in a bit more at the center back seam (which makes sense because I didn’t narrow the pattern pieces at the waist, despite adding extra length in the rise). I recommend you baste fit as well. The Ginger Jeans have instructions for this on page 7 of the printed pattern.
  • You’ll need a longer zipper if you plan to lengthen the rise of your rise. I recommend using at least a 9” jeans zipper and shortening it using the Ginger Jeans instructions as needed.
  • You’ll want to use a fabric with 15 to 20% stretch. This fabric as about 15% stretch and is perfect for these super tight jeans.

I'm over the moon happy with the fit on these jeans and see many more pairs in my future. I plan to make an oak tag pattern with all these mods as I see these becoming my go-to favorite jeans pattern going forward.

Ginger Jeans + Ogden Cami | Indiesew Tutorials

Happy sewing!

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Find out how to combine the Birkin Flares and Ginger Jeans to create a pair of high-waisted skinny jeans! | Indiesew.com

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